Acrylic paint is without a doubt the all-important ingredient in creating a photorealistic acrylic painting! How do you know which type of acrylic paint is best, and which brand to choose? On this page, we'll discuss the best brands of acrylic paint for photorealism.
If you want to learn how to paint photo realism, these articles will guide you step-by-step through the process of photorealist painting with acrylics. The first step is to gather all the essential materials. Here is a list of art supplies that you will need:
art supplies for painting photorealism
acrylic medium such as: glazing liquid or retarder
paint brushes of various sizes
surface - canvas, wood, paper, etc
to transfer the photo:
paper copy of reference photo and projector OR
paper copy of reference photo, transfer paper, artist tape and pencil
I primarily use
both
Golden Heavy Body Artist Acrylics
and
Liquitex Heavy Body Acrylics
for my artwork. The "heavy body" means that the paints have
a thick, buttery consistency, which means they offer great coverage
and opacity. I have also used
Winsor & Newton Finity Acrylics
,
which also worked well. I haven't used them with the same frequency
as I've used Liquitex or Golden acrylic paint, so I can't recommend
them as strongly, but they are certainly worth a try.
The paints come in 2 oz tubes and 4 oz tubes or jars. Depending on how large or small you work, the tubes will probably last quite a while. There are some tubes that I've had for years! The colors you will use most are Titanium White and Ivory Black, so you might want to get a larger size tube for those colors.
Colors to get: The main colors you will want to have on hand are: Titanium White, Titanium Buff, Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red Medium, Phthalo Green (Yellow Shade), Phthalo Blue (Red Shade), Alizarin Crimson, Dioxazine Purple, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, and Ivory Black.
The other colors you need will depend on the subject matter of your painting. For instance, if you want to paint money, pick up a tube of Chromium Oxide Green. If you need a good, strong pink to paint the frosting of a cupcake, go for Quinacidrone Red.
It's important to understand that you don't need to buy heaps of different colors. It can be tempting, but only buy colors if you know you'll use them. Most of the colors you need can be mixed using the acrylic paint you already have. If you are trying to achieve a certain color, always mix what you've got first. If the results aren't what you need, then go out and buy that spiffy new color!
Be sure to stay away from the Student quality acrylic paint, because those usually contain more filler and less pigment, which means the paint coverage and consistency is not as strong. They're okay for learning and experimenting, as they are cheaper than the Heavy Body acrylic paint, but you do get what you pay for. If you want to make a serious photorealist painting, save yourself any potential frustration and disappointment with the materials by going for the quality paints!
There is also
a new product worth mentioning called
Golden Open Acrylics.
I have not tried these yet myself, but will do so in the near future.
From the sound of it, they should be really excellent for photorealist
painting in acrylics. You can read a review of Golden Open Acrylics here. The biggest frustration with painting photorealistically
in acrylics is that the paints dry too quickly. This quick drying
time makes it difficult to blend colors easily, the way you can with
oils. (Quick drying can be a blessing and a curse - more on that later.)
These new Golden Open Acrylics stay wet longer, offering a longer
drying time. This should allow more time for blending, which is important
in photorealism for creating realistic shadows and highlights. These
acrylics should also lend themselves well to softening and glazing,
other important techniques in photorealism painting. The prices of
Golden Open Acrylics are only slightly more expensive
than Golden Heavy Body Artist Acrylics, so I would
recommend buying a few to give it a try.
Any questions about acrylic paint or photorealist painting in general? Drop me a line here.

This
is Page 1 of a 15-page guide explaining how to paint photorealistically.
This page covers the all-important ingredient in a painting: paint.
If you're unsure about whether you want to pursue acrylics, read more
about the characteristics
of acrylic paint.
Table of Contents
Part 1: Art Supplies
6. Materials: Varnish, Palette, etc.
Part 2: Transferring the Photo
7. Transferring the Reference Photo
8. How to Transfer the Photo: Projectors
9. How to Transfer the Photo: Grid Method
10. How to Transfer the Photo: Transfer Paper
Part 3: Paint!
11. Getting Started: Underpainting
12. Mixing Colors & Color Tips
14. Review
15. Varnish
Special Tips: How to Paint Glass Objects Photorealistically
Return to the beginning of How to Paint Photo realism: A Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint Your Own Photorealistic Paintings.
Read a current and historical overview of Photorealist painting techniques and methods. It is beneficial to familarize yourself with this information before you embark on your own journey to create photorealistic paintings.
Familiarize yourself with the Photorealist art movement by reading my overview of Photorealism.
Check out some of these excellent books on Photorealism and Photorealist artists.
